Colour:

Step 1: Section the hair into 3 sections based on your guest’s parting. Lighten with 30 ml Blacklight Cream Lightener with 30 ml Blacklight Smart Developer 10 Vol. (3%). Using a balayage technique, paint lightener onto the hair using a paddle board. Use cling wrap for incubation. Process for 40 minutes (desired result was level 8-9).
*Added Smart Bond Protection and Strengthening Concentrate for every 1 oz (30 ml) of lightener.
*4C, high porosity texture can be relatively fragile, it isn’t always necessary to use anything higher than 20 Vol. (6%) to achieve the desired lift.
Step 2: Lowlight with 40 ml 6-5/6R Calura Gloss with 40 ml Calura Gloss Cream Developer 13 Vol. (4%)
Step 3: Bright/Pop Pieces: 30 ml 7-55/7RR + 10 ml 0-55/0RR Calura Permanent with 40 ml Calura Permanent Developer 20 Vol. (6%).
The application for colour was working in small-medium subsections, weave your lowlights and apply the lowlight formula with even saturation. Proceed to apply bright/pop formula to the rest of the hair. Process for 20 minutes.
*Wash with Smart Purifying Shampoo Pro
*Apply Smart Bond Builder and Repair Treatment

Styling:

Step 1: Starting on wet to damp hair, spritz our Blacklight Volumizing Thickening Spray for colour protection, shine, moisture, and overall fullness. It is important the hair remains moist throughout this process.
Step 2: For 4C hair types like our model, work in small to medium sections, thoroughly spritz your section with water, and apply a good amount of our Blacklight Volumizing Styling Balm, to help clump coils together and bring out definition. Make sure the hair is pre-detangled to limit excess shedding.
Something to note, product and moisture (mainly water) are crucial in achieving curl definition. Therefore, applying a good amount of the right product and moisture is beneficial to your overall results.
Step 3: Use a detangling tool or your fingers to help distribute product and bring out definition.
Step 4: To finish, scrunch in our Blacklight Volumizing Fiber Mousse to lock in the moisture and give the style longevity.
Step 5: Diffuse to dry.

Colour:

Step 1: 40 ml Cool Toned Blacklight Lightener with 40 ml 10 Vol. (3%) Blacklight Smart Developer. Process for 40 minutes.
*Add Smart Bond Protection and Strengthening Concentrate for every 30 ml (1 oz) of lightener.
Step 2: Apply Global Toner: 10 ml 8-12/8AI Calura Gloss + 25 ml 8 NEUTRAL BROWN + 25 ml 8-34/8GK with Calura Lotion Developer 7 Vol. (2%).
Step 3: Over the Global Toner apply Root Shadow: 6 NEUTRAL BROWN Calura Gloss with Calura Cream Developer 13 Vol. (4%).
Process for 10 mins.

*Wash with Smart Purifying Shampoo Pro
*Apply Smart Repair Conditioner

Styling:

Step 1: After washing, do not ring out the water, so you are starting on very wet hair. Apply Calura Curl Balm all over. Work through in 2-3 inch sections, raking, smoothing, then scrunching. When applying product to the crown, direct the hair up while styling to help create volume.

Step 2: Have your guest lean forward & gently bring their hair over their head so it hangs forward. Gently adjust the hair in the crown so it is loosened at the scalp. This will help create more volume.

Step 3: Using the prayer hands technique, apply Calura Amplifying Mousse all over. After applying all over, scrunch the ends towards the scalp.

Step 4: Once you’ve created sufficient curls, use a microfiber towel to scrunch the hair. This will absorb extra water, product, & set the curls prior to drying.

Step 5: Use a diffuser on cold, medium speed to hover over the head until about 80% dry. Once the hair forms a good cast, utilize the diffuser by scrunching the mid-lengths of the hair up to the root, then the ends up to the mid lengths. Continue this method until the hair is fully dry.

Step 6: Use your hands to massage the scalp to marry the curl groupings together & scrunch through the ends to break the products cast.

Treatment:

Step 1: Start by fully saturating his hair. Textures like Barry reflect low porosity which requires a generous amount of water to help with product distribution.
Step 2: APPLY Smart Purifying Shampoo Pro and rinse. Massage in to remove impurities from the hair and scalp.

Step 3: MIX 3 oz/90 ml of water with 3 pumps (8.10 ml / ~0.3 oz) of Smart Bond Protection and Strengthening Concentrate. Apply on damp hair. PROCESS 3-5 minutes (do not rinse).
Step 4: APPLY Smart Bond Builder and Repair Treatment. Section the hair if needed to distribute the product evenly. Use a wide tooth detangling took to evenly distribute the product and detangle your guest’s curls (start from the ends and work upward). Process for 5 minutes and rinse.
Step 5: Gently REMOVE excess water from the hair with a soft fabric towel (microfiber is recommended for curls & coils) . Dry and Style.

Styling:

Step 1: Starting on wet to damp hair, work section by section to distribute product, spritzing in water when needed. It is important his hair remains moist throughout this process.
Step 2: Working in small to medium sections, apply a good amount of our Volumizing Styling Balm by Blacklight to help clump coils together and bring out definition. This product will condition and define coily textures.
Step 3: Use a detangling tool or your fingers to help distribute product and clump curls together. For tight textures like our guest, you can use a small bristle brush to achieve optimum curl definition.
Step 4: Finger coil as needed to help accentuate curls. Our model has a few different curl patterns to work with, so it's helpful to finger coil in certain areas
Step 5: Diffuse to dry

Notes from the artist: Due to his high porosity hair, it's important that his hair is constantly wet. Using a mist spray bottle will ensure he has the level of wetness needed to properly apply product to his curl pattern.

Colour:

Step 1: Using a freehand brick laid pattern, alternate both tones while painting. Targeting single and double curl groupings to give a little pop to a natural look.

Highlight Formula: 50 ml Blacklight Cream Lightener with 10 ml Balayage Clay Lightener with 20 Vol. (6%) Smart Blacklight Developer. Processed for 35 minutes.
*Added Smart Bond Protection and Strengthening Concentrate for every 1 oz (30 ml) of lightener.

Mid-length formula: 40 ml Calura Permanent 8 Neutral and 25% Blonding Cream with Calura Permanent Developer 30 Vol. (9%). Processed for 35 minutes.


Notes from the artist: Martina (@4allcurlkind) used 1 1/2- 2 in drops between sections depending on how dense her guest’s hair was in those areas. The denser areas and around her hairline were 1 ½ in dropouts versus the less dense areas being 2 in.

Make sure the areas you are applying colour or lightener to are fully saturated. This will help your overall lift. I also apply some of the lightener or colour to my glove to drag that section through so I can get saturation on both sides of the hair and not just a surface paint.

I utilized softer pressure by the root and did some back blending if needed to ensure a lived-in look.

*Washed with Smart Purifying Shampoo Pro

Step 2: Global Tone: 30 ml Calura Gloss Clear with 20 ml Calura Gloss 9-12/9AI and 20 ml 9-36/9GV with Calura Gloss Lotion Developer 7 Vol. (2%). Processed for 20 minutes.

*Applied Smart Bond Builder and Repair Treatment
Notes from the artist, Martina (@4allcurlkind)-make sure to work in the Smart Treatment, using it to give slip to thoroughly detangle the hair before rinsing. It’ll help their hair retain moisture and give their texture more definition and softness.

Styling:


Step 1: After washing do not ring the water out of the hair so that you are starting with very wet hair. Work the Calura Curl Balm in all over, using a spray bottle to keep the hair thoroughly saturated. Then work the Curl Balm through in 2-3 inch subsections using raking & smoothing techniques.

Step 2: Take a generous amount of Calura Amplifying Mousse and work it in the curl pattern, focusing on smoothing it into the hair strand.
Step 3: Use a microfiber towel to blot excess water and product off the hair and scalp.
*Do not scrunch! Scrunching dense coils may create unwanted frizz & shrinkage.
Step 4: Use a hooded dryer on low-medium heat for 30-35 mins to dry.
*The hooded dryer helps balance shrinkage by creating more elongation. It also sets a better cast for coils and offers more longevity than diffusing or air drying.
Step 5: Use your hands to massage the scalp to marry the curl groupings together and break the products cast.
Step 6: Finally, use the Blacklight Volumizing Shine Spray after hair is 100% dry. Spray at the base for more volume and through the mid-lengths for more natural movement.
*Use a pick comb for added shape and volume.

Colour:

Step 1: 40ml Extra Blonde Lightener by Blacklight with 40ml 20Vol. (6%) Blacklight Smart Developer. Section out the hairline and nape area to create an Asymmetrical Peek-a-Boo Highlight pattern. Start in the nape, working in fine back-to-back slices, to achieve maximum lift on your guest's brunette coarse textured strands. Process to the front sections, in fine slices for each subsection. Process for 40 minutes.
*added Smart Bond Protection and Strengthening Concentrate for every 1 oz (30 ml) of lightener.
Step 2: Colour Correct Base with 40ml 4Neutral Calura Permanent with 40ml Demi Effect Calura Developer. Process for 20 minutes.
Step 3: Global Gloss: 30ml 9-43/9KG Calura Gloss with 10ml 7-64/7VK Calura Gloss with 7Vol. (2%) Calura Gloss Demi-Permanent.

Styling:

Step 1: Shampoo with Calura Moisture Balance Shampoo
Step 2: Condition with Calura Moisture Balance Conditioner
Step 3: Make sure the hair is fully saturated with water when working throughout the hair
Step 4: Start by spritzing our Calura Perfecting Primer to prep for styling
Step 5: Work section by section, re-dampening the hair when needed, mix our Calura Curl Balm & Amplifying Mousse in the palm of your hand and work both products into the section
Step 6: Form a finger coil to define the curls
Step 7: Repeat these steps throughout the entire head and scrunch excess product with a damp towel in a downward position
Step : To get ready for diffusing scrunch in some more Calura Amplifying Mousse for finishing 7. Diffuse to dry in a downward position to build volume and finish in an upward position when the hair is about 70% dry

Colour:

Step 1: Use a chunky weaving technique to create big pops. Make the weave size mimic the width of their curl groupings.
Formula 1: Cream Lightener by Blacklight with 10Vol(3%) Blacklight Smart Developer
*added Smart Bond Protection and Strengthening Concentrate for every 1 oz (30 ml) of lightener.
Step 2: Colour Melt with equal parts Calura Gloss 6-65/6VR, 7-64/7VK ,8-46/8KV with 7Vol(2%). Lotion Calura Gloss Developer.
*Washed with Smart Purifying Shampoo Pro
*Applied Smart Repair Conditioner

Styling:

Step 1: Starting on very wet hair, apply Curl Balm all over. Work through in 2-3 inch sections, raking, smoothing, then scrunching. When applying product to the crown, direct the hair up while styling to help create volume.
Step 2: Have your guest lean forward & gently bring their hair over their head so it hangs forward. Gently adjust the hair in the crown so it is loosened at the scalp. This will help create more volume.
Step 3: Using a prayer hands technique apply Amplifying Mousse all over. After applying all over, scrunch the ends towards the scalp.
Step 4: Once you’ve created sufficient curl, use a microfiber towel to scrunch the hair. This will absorb extra water, product, & set the curls prior to drying.
Step 5: Use a diffuser on cold, med speed to hover over the head until about 80% dry. Once the hair forms a good cast, utilize the diffuser by scrunching the mid lengths of the hair up to the root, then the ends up to the mid lengths. Continue this method until the hair is fully dry.
Step 6: Use your hands to massage the scalp to marry the curl groupings together & scrunch through the ends to break the products cast.