How do you Blonde?

The art (yes, I call it art!) of blonding and lightening hair has changed so much over the past 17 years that I have been in the hair game. Every aspect has changed starting with applications, formulations and of course, the products and tools we use behind the chair! I have learned and adapted to so much but am most grateful for the huge advancement that colour lines offer for us behind the chair.  

Since making the switch to Oligo Professionnel, I was able to appreciate the amazing range of blonding products that left my guests beyond satisfied. I can honestly say that my foiling, balayage and global lightening game have leveled up!  

These product options have allowed me to diversify my techniques depending on my guest's hair type and health. You’ll notice in my work that I use lightener with some guests and permanent colour with others.  

This often leads to stylists asking me:   
How and when do you decide to use lightener over permanent colour and vice versa?  

The answer is dependent on a multitude of factors but also understanding the products you have available.  

So, let’s start with our PURE BLONDE series by Calura Permanent Colour:  

Calura Pure Blonde shades are formulated for maximum lifting and toning on natural hair. 

Some Tips to guide you on whether this series makes sense to use on your guest: 

  • Calura Pure Blonde shades are not recommended for pre-lightened hair
  • Apply Pure Blonde shades on natural levels 6 or lighter
  • Apply generously for optimal lifting 

 As a second tip, ask yourself is any white coverage needed as I am lifting my guest's hair? If so, I would recommend using the 8ULTRA Series by Calura Permanent Colour. 

This series offers up to 4 levels of lift on natural hair as well as 100% white hair coverage to help you create your best blondes yet! Offered in a variety of tonalities this news series is sure to make waves! 

  • Provides superior lifting of natural hair and 100% white coverage in one step 
  • 8 Ultra shades are Intermixable  
  • Anti-breakage and hair strengthening properties 
  • Recommended for levels 4 –7 
  • 30% -100% white hair 

That’s LIFT and TONE in ONE STEP! On virgin hair, it’s mixed with 30 or 40 vol by Calura Permanent. Here is a guide:  

Once you see the superior hair quality and the long-lasting blonde tones of the Pure Blondes and or 8ULTRA series, you’ll think twice before heading to your lighteners!   

So, when do I decide to use my lightener? 

As mentioned above, neither series is meant to be used with pre-lightened hair.  

Once I've considered the above, it's possible I decide to take a lightener and tone approach. The toning process can be done either with Calura Gloss or Calura Permanent (especially their Pastel Series!).  I use lightener when I need 8-9 levels of lift, or if I want more minimal to optimal lift on my pre-lightened guest.  

That said, don’t always run to your lighteners! Instead, grab your colour book (shade selector book) and start exploring and creating those gorgeous blondes in far less time! Options are available, we just need to learn what's out there! 

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